Freshwater & West Wight
The Needles, the Isle of Wight’s most iconic image, take their name from limestone pillars and rocks that jut out of the sea, and were created by the chalk downs of the west Wight being slowly eroded by the sea. This westerly point is home to the island’s biggest lighthouse that for years has protected ships from the jagged rocks around it – rocks that have claimed so many lives in what is considered to be one of the most dangerous stretches of water in the UK.
Above the lighthouse is Tennyson Down named after its most famous resident, the Victorian poet Alfred Lord Tennyson who lived at Farringford House (now a hotel) where he wrote many poems including his moving portrayal of “The Charge of the Light Brigade”. Not far away is St Agnes, the island’s only thatched church, which was built on land donated by the Tennyson family in 1908.
The scenery around Alum Bay and The Needles is stunning and offers much for the tourist to enjoy. The Needles Park is a large family amusement park at Alum Bay that provides many attractions including Alum Bay Glass where you can see the glass-making process, and Sweet Manufactory, gift shops, cafes, bars and food kiosks. There are amusements and a carousel for the children and a chairlift which takes you down to the rare coloured sands of the cliffs.
The beach itself is stony but the cliffs are a kaleidoscope of no less than 17 different colours of sand that stripe down to the ground, and with Tennyson Down as a backdrop and The Needles in the distance, it truly is a site to see. It was from these cliffs that Marconi, the inventor of the telegraph, first transmitted a message across open water to the Haven Hotel in Poole.
Situated directly above The Needles and providing the best photo opportunity of this landmark is an old First World War fort known as The Old Battery. Now a museum and tea gardens, The Old Battery has many artifacts from both world wars and a surprising period in the 50s, when the New Battery next to the old one was converted into a top secret rocket testing site. This is where the engines of the Black Knight rocket were tested, and once assembled elsewhere at another top secret location, the Black Knight rocket became the first missile to carry Britain's nuclear arsenal.
Walking from the old rocket testing site across Tennyson Down will bring you to Freshwater Bay and provide you with the opportunity to enjoy the stunning scenery. Freshwater Bay is a stony beach but at low tide it has many rock pools and caves to explore. Freshwater Bay is a good place to begin walking the Tennyson Trail – the spectacular scenery along the cliff-tops will take your breath away.
Dimbola Lodge was the home of the Victorian photographer, Julia Margaret Cameron, a friend of Lord Tennyson. It is now an exhibition centre and well worth a visit while you are in Freshwater, especially if your hobby is photography. In Freshwater town, you’ll find individual shops, and West Wight Sports Centre with an indoor swimming pool. Freshwater has an 18-hole golf course set high in this picturesque area of the Isle of Wight.
Totland Bay is another west-coast resort which is perfect for anyone hoping to have a relaxing holiday by the beach, or for families with small children. The beach is sand and shingle and is backed by trees and greenery. Along the seafront are shops, cafés, amusements and a pub/restaurant and Totland has its own pier. The sea here is good for jet-skiing and windsurfing, and it’s a pleasant walk along the promenade to Colwell Bay.
The port of Yarmouth has a ferry link to Lymington and has berthing and on-shore facilities for visiting yacht owners. It is a picturesque town with its own pier, and various cafés, public houses, shops and art gallery. Its castle was built by King Henry VIII in 1547 as a coastal defence.
Along the south coast a little bit after leaving Freshwater is Compton Bay with its golden, sandy beach which is popular for surfing and swimming. It is also known for being connected with dinosaur remains. Inland from Freshwater, you’ll find lots of quaint little villages – open countryside, rolling hills and pretty, thatched cottages everywhere. What more could you ask for?
Fascinating Fact
During the Second World War when the Old Battery at the Needles was being upgraded, a huge artillery gun called a Big Tom was wheeled in and placed into position. The gun was tested but unfortunately the recoil on this vast weapon was so much that a small part of the cliff under the fort fell away! Then instead of wheeling the gun away, it was decided that it would be quicker and less dangerous to simply push it over the cliff where it laid underwater until the end of the war when an American museum paid for it to be lifted out and transported by boat to the States.